420w

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1. Hair Curlers
One of the most popular of modern home beauty appliances is the hair curler. After the agony of curling irons and permanent waves, tody's electrified approach to hair care is a convenience most women enjoy despite the occasional mechanical and electrical problems which these appliances present. Fortunately, their design allows the do-it-yourselfer to make the needed repairs easily and quickly. The circuit is very simple, employing only a fuse, heating element, and temperature control. The power switch, a microswitch operating from a normally closed position, activates the heating element circuit when the cover of the curling unit is removed. The two indicator lights are energized and remain on until the heating element has reached its optimum temperature (after 3 to 4 minutes). At this point, the thermostat opens to shut off the circuit to the red (heating-indicator) light which lets the operator know that the curlers are ready for use. Temperature is maintained at the optimum level by the thermostat until the cover is replaced. Troubleshooting If the curler is completely dead—no heat and no light—check the switch, line-cord, and connection continuity. The activating tab must engage the switch arm. If the white indicator light is on while the red light remains off and no heat is developed, replace the thermostat. No heat with both lights on means a defective fuse or open heater element. You will have to puncture the fiber-glass sleeve with a probe to check the fuse. With an ohmmeter, check the heater element. If the curler under- or overheats and blows fuses in the process, first check the output temperature (see below). Then replace the thermostat. Disassembly Withdraw the four back screws, and release the top and switch assembly. Disconnect the two spade lugs from the switch assembly. Push the hinge pin and separate the top from the switch and housing assembly. Withdraw the two deck screws located on the extreme right and left sides of the deck. Lift the complete inner unit from the base. Remove the strain relief, slide the sleeve insulation from the spade connector and remove the line cord. Remove the large sleeve insulator. Remove the spade connector from the thermostat; withdraw the thermostat screw and thermostat. Remove the tape and twist nut from the lead wires. Push the red indicator light assembly and white indicator light assembly out of the deck. The lead and connector assembly (heater to pilot light) may be removed from the heater lead. Withdraw the three remaining deck screws and remove the deck. Pry one side of the heater shield away from the side of the casting and slide the heating assembly from the casting. To remove the fuse, it is necessary to remove the flag terminal, slide the fiber-glass sleeve off the fuse, and disconnect the other end of the fuse from the heater lead Reassembly and Repair Reverse the disassembly procedure. The shield must hold the heater assembly firmly against the casting. Rearrange the wiring on all HCD-1 models for service as follows: 1.  Remove the fused-heater lead flag terminal from the temperature control. 2.  Pull the fused-heater lead from under the pilot-light line cord lead, and redress it over the top, reconnecting the flag terminal to the temperature control. Note: A heatsink must be used between the fuse and wire or connector to protect it when soldering. Final Test Apply high test voltage (1100 volts) for 1 minute between each prong on the cordset and the curler plate casting. The wattage must be between 375 and 420W when plugged into a 120V ac power source. The thermostat must cycle with the first cycle taking place within 4 minutes after the switch is turned on. This test must be made in a room temperature of 70°-85°F. Make a test curler by utilizing a standard large curler, XH15X370, and thermocouple wire, XA12X54. See sketch. 1. Melt an indentation in the center of the top of the curler, with a soldering iron, down to the metal. Place the junction of the thermocouple in the indentation next to the metal and melt the plastic around the thermocouple wire holding it firmly in place. (Do not wrap the wire around the curler.) 2.  Connect the thermocouple wire ends to the meter, XA12X57. Place all the curlers in their respective locations and substitute the test curler for the large one on the extreme right in the middle row. 3. Turn the unit on and allow to heat for 10 minutes. The temperature must be between 150° and 180°. 4.   If the unit does not meet this specification, the temperature control must be replaced. (Do not attempt to calibrate the temperature control.)
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