450w

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1. Vacuum Cleaners
Vacuum cleaners require more operator attention than most home appliances for proper and efficient performance, but are really no more complex mechanically or electrically than window fans. Suction is created by means of a centrifugal fan which expels a powerful stream of air from the rear portion of the cleaner. This creates an equally powerful influx of air through the cleaning attachment nozzle which sucks up dirt and dust particles from carpets or floors. The air stream passes through a filter which collects the dust particles without obstructing the air flow appreciably. But, as the collection bag fills the resistance to air flow increases and loads the motor (usually a high-speed universal type). Thus, it is important to empty the filter or change the collection bag when filled. The tank-type cleaner has the greatest capacity of all cleaner types, and thus retains suction for the longest period. The tank-type cleaner uses an armature extended from the motor housing to drive the twin-fan assembly. If the motor refuses to run, check the switch, line cord, field, armature segments, brush to armature, and all leads and connections for continuity. Then inspect the brushes for wear or binding in the holder. Turn the armature by hand to verify that it is free. If the complaint concerns a vacuum loss, check for excessive dirt in the disposable bag first. Then look for a plugged hose or a plugged exhaust assembly. Leaks can occur at the seals and, especially between the top and bottom compartments. Noisy operation may mean defective bearings, bent armature, loose fans or other unsecured parts. The disassembly of this cleaner is accomplished by reducing it to four major components and then disassembly of each individual unit. The major components are: lid assembly, cord reel assembly, motor assembly, and base assembly. To disassemble the lid assembly, remove the suction regulator ring assembly. Withdraw four short screws and three long screws and remove the front lid guide and intake adapter assembly. Now remove the bumper from the lid. The handle rivets must be drilled out. Withdraw four screws holding the caddy. Lift the handle up and tip the caddy on end, sliding it from under the handle. Drill the one remaining rivet and remove the handle. Drill one short bottom rivet and the long rivet on each side of the lid and remove the roller. If it is necessary to remove the shield, drill the remaining bottom rivet and one top rivet on each side. Disassembly of the motor assembly is relatively straightforward. Remove the cloth by sliding off the bag support. Withdraw two screws and remove the bag support. Bend the tabs on the brush holder assembly, disconnect the brush lead, and remove the brush assembly. Lift the lead cover off the motor mount, remove the lead connector and slide the cover from the leads. Withdraw three motor mounting screws and remove the three motor mounts. Slide the complete motor assembly from the pan. (The wheel retaining clips are accessible through the motor assembly opening at this point.) Remove the motor gasket and pry the fan housing off. Hold the armature shaft with an Allen wrench inserted in the end of the shaft, and remove the retaining nut. (This nut has a left-hand thread; therefore, turn it clockwise for removal.) Remove the washer, fan, fan spacer, diffuser, second fan, and collar. Remove the two locknuts, motor screws, and washers. This releases the baffle and the lower end plate and bearing assembly. Lift the upper end plate from the upper bearing. This releases the bearing spring and spacing cup. Pull the armature from the motor housing ssembly and withdraw the bearing retainer screw which releases the bearing. If necessary to remove the brush holder assembly, drill the mounting rivet. To disassemble the cord reel, withdraw two upper screws and nuts and two lower mounting screws. Remove the grommet in the pan, pull the lead free, and remove the Heyco strain relief. Remove the lead connector or cut the lead if the connector is mt accessible. This releases the complete cord reel assembly. Withdraw the four housing and plate screws and the pedal spring screw. Remove the pedal spring and spacer, lift the cord reel assembly and plate from the housing. (Caution: Allow the reel to unwind slowly to prevent damage.) Remove the pedal pin from the housing and slide the bumper off. Withdraw one screw and remove the cord reel from the plate. Drill the rivet from the brush-block assembly and remove the brush-block assembly and insulator from the plate. Unwind the cord from the reel and remove the strain relief. Remove the connectors from the slip rings, and pull the cord set assembly and insulating sleeve from the reel. Slide the pedal assembly and cord guide from the cord set. The base assembly is the last element to be disassembled. Remove the intake seal from the bracket. Drill the two rivets and remove the bag retainer spring. Drill the two rivets and remove the bag retainer. Withdraw one screw, and remove the lid release arm. Withdraw the screw holkng the left cam in place, slide the rod toward the left side, releasing it from the hole in the right side of the pan. Lift the right side of the rod and slide it freefrom the cleaner. Remove the spring, left cam, screw, and right cam from the rod. Withdraw two screws in the front of the pan and two screws in the rear. (Disconnect the brush lead and connector and remove the grommet.) Lift the pan assembly free from the base. (Caution: Make sure the rod seals are not lost in disassembly.) Pull the insulation strip from the base. Drill the rivet in the switch cover and remove the cover from the switch. Remove the switch retaining nut and lockwasher, and slide the switch through the base. Remove the connector and remove the switch. Drill four rivets in the blower plug, cut the three plastic studs, and remove the blowr pug. Remove the retaining clips from thswheel axle and slide the axles and wheel assembly from the base. Tap the axle to force the hub cap off the wheel and separate the axle from the wheel. The tire may be removed by rolling it off the side of the wheel. Drill four rivets and remove the muffler, baffle, and screen assembly. The front caster may be removed by drilling out two rivets. To reassemble, reverse the disassembly procedure. Pop rivets for reassembly are supplied in lieu of standard rivets, therefore the following should be used: •  Rear handle rivets •  Shield Mounting rivets •  Brush block mounting rivets •   Switch cover rivet t Blower plug rivets •  Wheel brackets •  Front caster •  bag retainer When installing the lid bumper, make sure the seam is centered under the intake adapter. The core reel assembly is to be replaced and cannot be repaired if the spring breaks. Inoperative cord reels must be returned to your source of supply for return to the factory. To install place the cord retainer and pedal assembly onto the cord set in the proper sequence and position (refer to illustration). Then insert the cord set through the slot in the hub of the reel and connect the spade terminals, making sure that the insulating sleeve is positioned correctly. Install the strain relief. Wind the cord onto the reel, making certain the cord collects on the rew evenly. Apply a light film of petroleum jelly to the cord reel connector rings. Replace the reel on plate and brush block assembly, making certain that the reel shaft fits fully into the brush block. Secure with mounting sere Wind the reel in a counterclockwise direction, six or seven full turns, and continue with the reassembly of the plate to the housing. The cord reel cannot be released until the cord retainer is properly positioned. When replacing the blower plug assembly, heat stake the studs with a soldering iron. And finally, use adheuve XV59X2 to secure the intake seal. After reassembly, the cleaner should be run for at least 15 minutes. Apply high voltage (1080V) for 1 minute between the cord set plug and the casing, check the cord reel for proper operationby completely unwinding the cord set and retrieving it fully by pressing the pedal. Using the XV60X34 vacuum test gage, insert it in the inlet adapter. Check the vacuum. It must b a minimum of 7 inches of mercury. Upright cleaners havehhe smallest collection capacity of all, and must be designed to retain their suction efficiency for as long as possible. The model may have an additional pulley on the armature to power a rotating brush. The brush loosens dirt particles and tends to fling them into the airstream where they are sucked into the bag. A two-position switch regulates motor rpm and mechanically closes off the housing intake for floor cleaning where a brush is inadequate for proper cleaning action. If the motor does not run, check the continuity of the line cord, on-off switch, motor-lead assembly, and hi-lo switch. Then go to the field coils and armature segments. Inspect the brushes. Refusal to run at either speed is usually the fault of the switch. Check it for continuity in both positions. Check the adjustment and the mechanical linkage from the lever to the switch. Weak vacuum can be caused by deposits clogging the cleaner, a loose fan, improperly positioned suction control, or an overly full bag. The disassembly of the cleaner can be divided into four major categories. These are: handle and components, upper base, motor, and lower base. To disassemble the handle and bag,begin by removing the bag assembly from the cleaner, then withdraw the nut and bolt and remove the handle assembly. Withdraw the screws in the handle bracket and remove the assembly. The handlesocket and bracket may be separated by removing the hinge pin. The handle spring, lever, bag« catch, etc. are also released at this time. To disassemble the upper base, remove the soleplate by turning the three lock buttons counterclockwise. Then remove the belt and brush assembly and withdraw the two-screws which are on the underside of the base and lift the hood. Disconnect the cord set and switch leads and remove the hood. The cord set can be released from the hood by removing the strain relief and the switch can be released by removing themounting nut. Disconnect all leads to the switch, loosen two bolts, and slide the switch up and out of the bracket. Withdraw the mounting screws and lift the switch bracket free from the motor base. The spring will be released. The motor comes apart after the upper base. Remove the brush caps and carbon brushes. Withdraw four motor-mounting screws and lugs. Lift the complete motor assembly free from the base. Withdraw three motor-mounting bolts and remove the top bearing-retainer assembly, spring, spacing-cup base, and bearing assembly. Hold the armature shaft with a 5 / 32" Allen wrench and remove the hex nut by turning it counterclockwise. Remove the bearing spacer, fan, and fan spacer. Slide the armature from the motor housing. The orifice may be removed by withdrawing two screws. Next, insert a 5 / 32" Allen wrench into the top end of the armature. Use a wrench on the flats of the pulley and turn clockwise)left-hand thread). If the pulley does not release, heat it until it starts to discolor or turn slightly blue. This will soften the Loc-Tite; remove the fan. Specific instructions are not required for the base assembly. (Refer to the exploded view if necessary.) Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Make sure all wiring conforms to the wiring diagram and schematic used in this instruction. Apply one drop of Loc-Tite to the threads of the pulley during reassembly. When replacing the carbon brushes, the tab must be inserted into the slot nearest the top of the motor. Use a drop of Loc-Tite on the motor bolts to prevent them from loosening because of vibration. Use cement, XV59X2, to hold the gasket to the soleplate. It is suggested that the muffler be removed from the outer bag to minimize wear. Use the following procedure: a.  Open the outer bag and remove the disposable paper bag. b.  Cut the forward and back plastic tabs (sewn to the bottom of the muffler) with a pair of scissors. Slide the muffler off the intake. Caution: Extreme care must be exercised in cutting the top of the muffler to prevent cutting the inner plastic throat. Early productions used an aluminum fan. Later production models used a steel fan with a spacer. All units should be converted to the steel fan as follows: a. Remove the pulley, as per disassembly instructions, and remove the fan. Place the small part of the spacer next to the bearing. Slide the new steel fan on the shaft and install the pulley. The cleaner should be run for at least 15 minutes after reassembly if the motor is repaired. Test at 1100V for 1 minute between the cord plug prongs and the base and pulley with the switch in both on and off positions. Also test with the hi-lo switch in both positions. The vacuum measured with a gage inserted in the accessory hole must be a minimum of 13 inches with lever set on hose. The wattage must be a maximum of 700W on the hose setting and 450W on the rug setpng. The canister-type cleaner is little more than a small tank-type cleaner with an armature-mounted fan used to create the airflow necessary for suction. When the circuit is energized by an on-off toggle switch, air is drawn through the hose attachment and swivel cap, through the disposable collection bag, through the motor, and out the exhaust port at the base of the canister. Since the cooling air passes through the motor housing, it is important to properly insert the bag and check to see that it is not defective. If the motor does not run, check continuity through the switch, line cord, field, armature segments, brush to armature, and all lead connections. Then inspect the brushes for wear or binding in the brush holders. Turn the armature by hand to test for ease of operation. Little or no vacuum indicates a plugged hose, overfilled bag, loose fan or leaking seal. Check the swivel cap. Noisy operation means defective bearings, loose fan, fan or armature striking, or other loose parts. To disassemble remove the lid assembly, disposable bag, and inner bag. Withdraw one screw and remove the bag support and the insulator disc. Disconnect the brush leads and bend the tabs on the brush box; remove the brush and spring assembly. Remove the connectors, releasing the cord set and switch leads. Remove the switchmounting nut and push the switch through the mounting hole. Remove the strain relief and cord set. Withdraw the three motor-mounting screws and motor mounts. Lift the motor assembly from the casing. Remove the gasket from the motor assembly. Pry the fan housing from the diffuser. Hold the armature shaft with an Allen wrench and remove the nut by turning it clockwise (left-hand thread). Remove the washer, fan, fan spacer, diffuser, second fan, and bearing. Take out the two nuts, the two motor-mounting bolts, and washers. This releases the baffle, end plate and bearing assembly, top end-plate assembly, bearing spring, cup, and armature. The top bearing can be removed from the armature by withdrawing the screw. The casters may be removed by drilling the rivets. The escutcheon assembly can be removed by pulling the blower plug out and withdrawing the two screws. Disassembly of the attachments, hose, and rug tool can be accomplished by referring to the illustration. To assemble, reverse the above procedure. Use Loc-Tite on the threads of the motor bolts to prevent the nuts from becoming loose through vibration. The cleaner should be run for at least 15 minutes after reassembly. Test at 1100V for 1 minute between the prongs on the cord set and the casing. Check the vacuum by inserting the test gage in the swivel cap and block the rectangular hole in the top of the cap. The vacuum must be a minimum of 15 inches. Check the wattage qth the unit plugged into a 120V 60Hz power s urce. It must be a maximum of 700W or approximately 5.8A with the swivel cap inlet completely blocked
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2. Electric Heaters
The simplest and most popular electric heater is a heating coil connected to a line cord. A more'complicated type is shown in the exploded view in Fig. 5-5. This is a room heater with a two-speed fan and automatic temperature control. It uses two finned heating elements and a switch for a selection of one element or two. A control lever regulates the temperature. When set to the extreme left, the unit is off. A slight movement to the right turns on a light to indicate the unit will go on when the thermostat calls for heat. The unit automatically maintains the desired temperature in the area it is capable of heating. Many models similar to the one shown have a tip-over switch to automatically shut off the heat if the unit is tilted more than 30 degrees from the upright position. The fan operates at 2100 and 2700 rpm. The unit is rated at 1650- 1200W, 120V, 60 Hz, and delivers 5600 BTU / hr. Thermostat Calibration Although many space heaters have nonadjustable thermostats, the thermostat used in this particular unit is adjustable. The thermostat uses a bimetal leaf with two adjusting screws. Access by removing the two expansion-clip plugs located underneath the shell. The thermostat also has a back contact to activate the light. This contact is nonadjustable. The adjusting screws have a slotted head to accept a screwdriver. When making an adjustment, turn the adjusting screw only a quarter turn at a time and then remove the screwdriver as the slight pressure of the tool will give a false reading. Use a continuity tester, VOM or wattmeter when making any adjustment to the thermostat. To adjust for room temperature, slide the temperature-control knob slowly to the right until the circuit is complete. The temperature point on the faceplate should be within 10° below room temperature. If the variation is more than 10° below room temperature, set the control knob within this range on the faceplate and turn the thermostat adjustment screw clockwise to open the circuit. Should the control knob go past room temperature on the faceplate, turn the thermostat adjustment screw counterclockwise to move the adjustment down to room temperature. After each adjustment, return the control knob to the off position and repeat the circuit test. Make the differential adjustment after the room-temperature adjustment. (See Fig. 5-6.) This adjustment varies the time lag of the bimetal leaf. The wider the gap, the longer it will take for the bimetal leaf to close the circuit. Move the control knob to the right and left so the thermostat contacts just open and close. Note the temperature difference on the faceplate between the on and off positions. This is the differential. Turn the differential adjustment a quarter turn at a time to limit the differential to approximately 5°. Turning the screw clockwise decreases the differential; counterclockwise increases it. Do not adjust the differential too small. This could cause a continuous closed contact or erratic on-off cycling. The back contact for the light can be tested with a VOM at the thermostat terminal leads. Servicing The Units To disassemble, remove the two screws securing the nameplate to the shell. Pull the temperature control knob from control lever. Some lubricant may be required so the knob slides freely. Remove the control lever; it is secured by a nut. Note the flat on the shaft for positioning the control lever. Next, take out the two screws located directly above and below the control shaft. The screws on each side should not be removed. Remove the screws securing both switches to the shell and the outer screws securing the rear cover to the shell. The rear cover with all component parts can now be lifted away from the shell for replacement of parts and testing. To replace the thermostat, remove the two screws from each side of control shaft which secure the thermostat to the light bracket. Disconnect the wires from thermostat. The switches require special consideration. With the element switch on low, the 1150W element circuit is complete and the switch is open. Turning the switch to high adds the 450W element. The fan switch employs a resistor to reduce the fan motor rpm. On high the switch is closed. Both switches can be tested with a VOM. A complete circuit indicates a closed switch. If the switches are not isolated from the circuit, a resistance reading may appear on an open switch. During assembly the switches are positioned in the shell with the terminals towards the bottom. The motor can be electrically tested between the motor-lead connection on the fan switch and the splice lead at the element switch. Replace the motor as an assembly (less fan). Remember to oil the bearing felts when servicing the unit. The 1150W element (upper element) is used whenever the heat is on. The 450W element (lower element) is added when the element switch is on high. The elements are marked on the end for identification. Remove as follows: a. Disconnect the wires from elements. b.  Remove the element retainer and slide the elements out. c. Check for broken or cracked ceramic insulators. d.  Use Silastic 732 RTV or other plastic sealer on the element ends and ceramic insulators to prevent rotation and a vibration rattle. The tip-over switch is a safety switch used to open the heating circuit when the unit is tilted over 30 degrees from the vertical. The pendulum on the switch must be free to move and the contacts must close when the pendulum is in the upright position. Troubleshooting No heat means an open in the element, thermostat, or tip-over switch. Make individual continuity checks. If only the low-heat function operates, check the low-heat element and switch. No light would lead one to suspect the lamp (filament and socket) and the back contact on the thermostat. A dead fan involves the motor or fan switch. The former may have an electrical fault or it may be the victim of seized bearings. If the room temperature is too low, look to the thermostat adjustments. The stat may be adjusted too low or the differential may be too wide. A dead fan can also be the culprit. Of course, a low-heat complaint assumes that the room is not too large for the heater. Too high a room temperature means that the thermostat is too high or that the differential is too small. Noise can originate in loose motor mounts, contact between the fan and shell, or a loose element.
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