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1. Autographs
He stops at nothing—not even the cop on the baseball field, if he thinks there's a chance to get to Mickey Mantle or Willie Mays.
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2. Electricity
A wide array of heating alternatives run on electric power. In some ways, electricity is better than fossil fuels. It's 100 per cent efficient in use (though not in production); it's cleaner in the home; and, used as a heating source, can allow for individual room temperature control. Depending on where you live, electric heat may not be practical. Cost and availability are the two obvious reasons. The common electric baseboard heater is a non-circulatory unitary heating system. Relying on the natural convection of heated air to circulate warmth throughout a room, baseboard heaters are placed under windows and along outer walls. Each element of a unitary heating system, with its own thermostat, can be independently controlled or can be controlled with a central thermostat. Standard practice is a thermostat for each room, allowing you to balance the whole house according to your needs. There's no wasted energy from heating rooms that remain unoccupied. If used in conjunction with an oil furnace, unitary systems can provide heat at greater efficiency until the outside temperature drops so low that it becomes less costly to heat with the furnace. Electrical contractors estimate it will cost the average homeowner approximately $2500 to $3000 to convert to electric heat from an oil-fired system. This figure includes the cost of upgrading your electrical system to a 200 ampere (A) service (most are 60 to 100 A) to accommodate the increased load. Electric furnaces work on the principle of heat convection. They use electric elements to heat air and a fan blows this air throughout the house via duct work. Purchase and installation price runs between $800-$1400; add $1000 for rewiring and any additional costs for upgrading insulation or any necessary carpentry work. An electric plenum heater is another option for homeowners who can't justify getting rid of their efficient oil furnace. It's known that more electricity is needed for heating as the mercury drops below 0°C, and having the option of switching back to oil during cold snaps can mean energy bill savings. Plenum heaters are heating coils inserted into the hot air plenum or duct of an upright furnace. They're designed to operate during mild weather and shut off (switch over to oil) when they become inefficient. They're estimated to cut oil consumption by about 50 per cent, representing savings of up to 20 per cent on your energy bill. Basic costs run anywhere from $1200 to $1500, provided your electrical service doesn't have to be upgraded. Inspectors from the local utility company can advise you if it does. The pay back time is thought to be about four years, assuming there are no dramatic jumps in electricity costs. Hot water systems can also be switched to electric power from oil and be eligible for a Canada Oil Substitution Program (COSP) subsidy. (If you wish to remove your entire hot water system to install a forced air system, you won't receive assistance. The same holds true if you're switching from forced air to hot water.) The system delivers heat by piping hot water through the radiators. A central boiler uses elements to heat the water and then a pump circulates it through. When converting to electricity, only the boiler is altered or replaced. The existing pipes are usually satisfactory for the new system. Once again, you'll need 200 A service. In regions of 4800 Celsius degree-days or less (mild winters), heat pumps will cut the average fuel bill in half. Heat pumps require back-up systems where winters dip down to really cold temperatures. There are two systems to choose from. One is an all-electric system consisting of a heat pump with electric resistance heaters to provide backup heating. The other is an addon type that can be fitted to your existing oil or gas furnace using the same duct work. Essentially, heat pumps operate on the principle that energy, in the form of heat, flows from warm areas to cold. Heat pumps can heat your home using one of three methods: air-to air, by circulating freon (which acts as a heater/ coolant) back and forth, from inside to outside the house; water-to-air, by pumping water through a heat-exchanger coil; and ground-to-air, by pumping antifreeze through a ground coil placed below the frost line, so it returns as a heat source for the exchanger coil. To compare the efficiency of heat pumps with alternate sources of heating, you must measure their performance. There are two ways. First, by dividing the heat output of the unit by the input of electric energy, at specific temperatures, you get the "coefficient of performance" or COP. The higher the COP the more efficient the heat pump. A second method, "seasonal performance factor" (SPF), calls for the heat output of the unit to be divided by the seasonal energy input over an entire heating season. In either Halifax or Vancouver, if you compare the SPF of heat pumps with electric heating, you'd have an average SPF of 1.9 to 2.3 for pumps and an SPF of 1 for electricity. By comparison, the SPF for oil and gas heating is 0.6. A heat pump is the most efficient home heating alternative discussed so far, but it has weaknesses. When outside temperatures dip, its capacity to provide heat decreases. In fact, below temperatures of -10°C, the amount of heat produced by a heat pump is so small that the saving in heating energy isn't worth the wear on the machine. The shut-off point should be set between -2°C and -7°C, with a small electric furnace taking over at lower temperatures. Heat pumps double as air conditioners but they're expensive — up to $3000 for equipment and installation, not counting any necessary rewiring. Operating costs are quite low. An add-on heat pump used with an oil furnace can save 36 per cent in total energy consumed — 25 per cent with a gas furnace. If the climate in your area is severe, you may have difficulty justifying a heat pump. For many it is only worthwhile if air conditioning is desired.
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January 8, 2009