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11. Bring In Cooler Air
• Open up those windows; let in the cool night breezes. • Use a window fan or your attic fan (by opening the hatch to the attic) to draw air through the house.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/energy_savings/​cooling/​bring_in_cooler_air.html

12. Reduce Internal Heat Loads
• Make sure that refrigerator and freezer door seals are air tight, and avoid leaving the door open longer than necessary.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/energy_savings/​cooling/​reduce_internal_heat_loads.html

13. Lawnmowers And Rototillers
Learn to "hear" your motor; gradually open the throttle until the machine is working at optimum efficiency. Warning: Never leave your machine idling for long periods or when you're not around.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/energy_savings/​outside_machinery/​lawnmowers_and_rototillers.html

14. Check Your Apartment Heating
How does this save energy? The heating unit will send more heat to the open outlets. These areas will warm up more quickly, so less use will be made of the heating unit.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/energy_savings/​apartment_living/​check_your_apartment_heating.html

15. Casting Greenware
Now that we know something about casting slips and molds, let's see how they are used to produce ceramic greenware. Suppose we have a mold for a pitcher consisting of two separate molds: a two-piece drain mold for the body of the pitcher, and a two-piece solid-casting mold for the handle. Assemble the two parts of each mold, and fasten heavy rubber bands around them, to hold the sections together; be sure to use enough rubber bands so that, when the molds are filled with slip, the weight of the slip can't force the sections apart and allow the slip to escape. Place the molds with their openings — called "pouring gates" - uppermost on a level table. Fill a plastic bucket with casting slip, and stir thoroughly with a clean stick, a slotted spoon, or your hand; the slip must be fluid and free of lumps. Place an ordinary kitchen strainer over a clean, empty bucket, and pour the slip through it. Mix and strain your slip each time you use it; the extra time involved will pay off in quality greenware. Now fill a large, plastic or enamel pitcher with the prepared slip. Pour a steady stream of slip into the center of the pitcher mold until it is filled to the level of the top of the mold; don't stop pouring, even for an instant, once you begin to fill a mold, or blemishes called "hesitation marks" will encircle the finished greenware. Fill the handle mold in the same manner. As the molds stand, you will notice the level of the slip begin to lower; when it does, fill the mold to the top again. When the lowering action in the solid-casting mold (the handle) begins to slow, do not add more slip, but allow this mold to stand until it has absorbed the moisture from the slip in it. The longer the slip remains in the drain mold (the pitcher section), the thicker the walls of clay on its inside surfaces will become, so you must watch it carefully (the time the slip needs to remain in the mold will depend on the consistency of the slip, the dryness of the mold, the density of the plaster and the thickness of the desired wall in the piece being cast). Test the thickness of the casting from time to time, by tilting the mold slightly and then cutting through the clay formed near the top; the wall of clay for small pieces should be from 1/8" to 3/16" thick, while large pieces may require a wall thickness of 1/4" to 5/16". It may take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes to attain the desired thickness. When the desired thickness of clay has been deposited on the inside of the mold, pour out the remaining slip, as follows: lift the mold with both hands, and hold it over the slip bucket. Gradually tip the mold until it is turned more than halfway upside down, and hold it in this position until all of the slip has drained from it; if you hear a gurgling sound, you are tipping the mold too rapidly, which does not allow air to enter, so tip the mold back toward the upright position until the sound stops. Never shake or bump the mold during the draining, to hurry the process, but allow the slip to run out of its own accord. As soon as all of the slip is drained from the mold, stand it, pour gate down, on a newspaper-covered table, and prop one edge with a stick so that it is from 1/2" to 1" higher than the opposite edge; propping the mold as described will prevent drops of slip from forming on the inside of the bottom of the piece, which would dry into unsightly bumps. When the shine disappears from the surface of the clay, turn the mold upright, and clean the clay from around the pour gate, using a plastic scraper, a piece of wooden slat or a dull knife. The clay between the body of the pitcher and the top of the mold is called the "waste rim," or "spare," and must be removed. If your mold is designed so that you can cut it away without damaging the casting, use a fettling knife -the flat of the blade parallel to the side of the pour gate to cut out the spare. If, to remove the spare, you would cut into the casting, your mold is one designed to have the spare cut off after the greenware has been removed from it. Allow the mold to stand for about an hour (this time would be longer for large molds), and the cast piece should be hard enough to remove. Place the mold on its side, and remove the rubber bands. Now, carefully lift straight up on the uppermost section of the mold until it clears the casting; set this section aside. Pick up the mold section containing the casting and hold it with one hand and jar it sharply with the other hand; this action will break the suction between the casting and the mold. Now, cautiously turn the mold over, gently supporting the casting with one hand; the greenware should release into your hand, and can be placed upright on the table. If any bits of clay remain along the inner edges of the mold, push them off with the ball of your thumb - never scrape or scratch near the inside of a mold. Put the mold parts together, using the rubber bands to hold them in place, for storage. Open the solid-casting mold and remove the greenware handle, as described above. Use a knife to cut the solid spare from this piece. ASSEMBLY: Score the areas on the pitcher where the handle is to be attached, scratching the damp clay with a knife tip, or similar, pointed tool. Also score the areas of the handle which will contact the pitcher. Use a brush to apply some slip to the scored areas on the pitcher, then press the handle in place, moving it slightly until you feel it "grab," and hold. Wipe the excess slip from the joints, with a damp brush. DRYING: Set the greenware aside to dry, in a draft-free place. Small pieces of plaster board make excellent greenware-drying racks. Do not place wet greenware on metal shelves, or other non-porous surfaces, since the metal will retard the drying of any part o' the greenware which is in contact with it, which could cause cracking or warping in the piece.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/crafts/​ceramics/​casting_greenware.html

16. Cleaning And Repairing Greenware
Greenware pieces which have been cast in one-piece molds, such as bowls, cups and goblets, will not have seam marks, but will often have a ridge around the open end, and this must also be removed.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/crafts/​ceramics/​cleaning_and_repairing_greenware/​

17. Firing, Part 1
The temperature in these open kilns very rarely exceeded a dull red level (about 1530°F), since there was no way to retain the heat.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/crafts/​ceramics/​firing_part_1/​

18. Brushes And Brushstrokes, Part 2
Familiarity and practice with round brushes can open up a whole world of pleasure for the hobbyist who is willing to put forth a bit of effort.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/crafts/​ceramics/​brushes_and_brushstrokes_part_2.html

19. Brushes And Brushstrokes, Part 3
Turning the brush slightly will result in fan-shaped brushprints, which can be used to paint "faces" in pansies and violets, and for stamens in open flowers such wild roses.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/crafts/​ceramics/​brushes_and_brushstrokes_part_3.html

20. Surface Alteration - Carving And Incising
The hobby ceramist can use these age-old techniques to open new vistas of decorating pleasure. Surprisingly the carving process seems to work best on dry greenware, rather than on the softer wet or leather-hard pieces, since it is actually a scraping and not a cutting procedure.
http://www.fun-home-projects.com/crafts/​ceramics/​surface_alteration_carving_and_incising/​


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